sábado, 16 de junio de 2007

Apología de la vid

Quería empezar a escribir en este blog partiendo de un texto que ya hice para la Peña El Sarmiento y que reproduciré aquí íntegramente. Es una apología de la vid, esa planta de la que salen esos frutos que luego transformados producen una de nuestras pasiones: el vino.
Si hay amigos que ya lo leyeron en su día creo que lo mejor que pueden hacer es aprovechar su tiempo (bien cada día más escaso en la sociedad que nos ha tocado vivir) en hacer otras cosas más interesantes. Aunque bueno, igual una doble lectura puede venir bien.
Hay un axioma básico que debe imperar en todo el proceso vitícola, desde que se decide planificar una explotación hasta que el consumidor adquiere una botella para bebérsela:
Una uva mala jamás puede dar un vino bueno
Una uva buena puede dar buen o mal vino.
Esto que parece sumamente básico y fácil de decir no es tan simple de desarrollar. Cualquier tipo de decisión que se tome debe ir pensada y encaminada hacia la producción de uva de calidad (ya hablaremos más adelante sobre la calidad del vino y de la uva) que luego, mediante unas buenas prácticas sea transformada en vino de alta calidad para que sea consumido y disfrutado.Ahí es donde interviene la importancia de la Viticultura, entendida como la actuación de unas determinadas técnicas de cultivo sobre la vid. Al final, podemos ver que las técnicas enológicas pueden ser homogéneas, reproducibles de una zona a otra, pero es la viticultura la que nos puede aportar una peculiaridad y tipicidad determinada, ya que intervienen multitud de factores que son diferentes de unas regiones a otras (suelo, clima, etc). Esas técnicas son las que pueden ser variadas y las que deben ir encaminadas a la obtención de una uva de gran calidad.
Aquí surge el concepto de calidad. ¿Qué es calidad?
Desde mi punto de vista convendría separar el concepto de vino de calidad del de calidad de la uva. El primero es totalmente subjetivo y muy variable en espacio (en cualquier sitio siempre se considera que se hace el mejor vino del mundo) y tiempo (las modas varían, por ejemplo, en los 90 se consideraron patrones de vinos de calidad vinos muy diferentes a los que eran considerados como de gran calidad en los años 70).Y si hablamos de calidad de la uva pienso que hay que hacer unas referencias:
1) Que sea una uva sana

2) Que sea una uva madura, tanto en su madurez tecnológica o gluconométrica (referida a la pulpa: azúcares, acidez, etc. adecuadas) como en su madurez fenólica (referida al hollejo y a sus componentes).

3) Tener en cuenta el vino que se va a elaborar, ya que no es lo mismo una uva de calidad para elaborar un Jerez o un Cava, que la uva necesitada para elaborar un vino tinto que va a pasar un largo tiempo en contacto con madera.

4) tener en cuenta también las peculiaridades que ofrece cada variedad.
Al hablar de dos tipos de maduraciones me gustaría apuntar un inciso, ya que la maduración tecnológica se refiere a los compuestos comunes de la uva (digamos azúcares y ácidos, que se encuentran en todos los frutos) y la fenólica se referiría a los compuestos “nobles” (fenoles de forma general) pertenecientes al metabolismo secundario.
Las diferencias entre los compuestos comunes y nobles son varias.
En primer lugar la localización en el grano de uva es diferente ya que los comunes existen más en la pulpa mientras que los nobles se encuentran más mayoritariamente en el hollejo, por lo que su extracción es más lenta. Así, la localización de estos "nobiliarios" en un grano de uva podría ser la siguiente:
1) En hollejo existen ácidos fenólicos, flavonoides, antocianos, taninos.
2) En pulpa existen ácidos fenólicos.
3) En semillas y raspón (o escobajo, raquis, palillo) hay ácidos fenólicos y taninos.
Ya veremos cuando hablemos de todos estos compuestos lo que son, sus propiedades, estructura, etc. Poco a poco.
Además, la diversidad molecular de los compuestos nobles es mucho mayor que la de los comunes, y su facilidad de análisis es mucho más complicada.
Otras diferencias generales se basan en que sí existe una relación mucho más directa entre los datos de la uva y del vino en los compuestos comunes que en los nobles; y además los compuestos comunes son mucho más fáciles de corregir si existen deficiencias en la maduración.
Por lo tanto, la obtención de uva de calidad entiendo que debe ser el principal objetivo a cumplir y en el que los principales esfuerzos deben hacerse. Eso nos ahorrará en bodega gastos innecesarios y fuertes inversiones, que hoy en día se hacen para “maquillar” defectos en los vinos por la procedencia de una uva que no se encuentra en perfecto estado.
Así que, como hice una vez en el foro de debate de Verema, voy a volver a hacer en esta primera introducción una apología de la vid, basada en una serie de puntos.
1-Es la planta más generosa que conozco, siendo sustituida por otras en épocas de hambruna y escasez.

2-Planta noble donde las haya, que nos perdona errores de cultivo.

3-Da sus frutos en forma de racimo, facilitando su vendimia.

4-De sus frutos se saca un producto no perecedero que va más allá de ser un mero alimento.

5-El viticultor no es un agricultor tradicional, no sé cómo explicarlo, pero ama a sus viñas, no es como un productor de trigo, por ejemplo. Ya se demostró en épocas de concentraciones parcelarias.

6-Es la especie con más variedades en el mundo.

7-Es un gran ejemplo de lucha biológica (cómo se acudió a patrones americanos contra la filoxera)

8-Existen especies que nos sirven de portainjertos y que además son interfértiles; y creo que no sucede con otros frutos.

9-No se usan variedades artificiales como en otros frutos, de ahí que el tema de transgénicos no creo que esté muy desarrollado en el viñedo.

10-Es la única especie que su estudio técnico dispone de titulación universitaria.

11-Hablando de Religión.....creo que según la Biblia fue la primera vestimenta usada.

12- De la vid existe la reglamentación más antigua respecto a una superficie de cultivo (92 d.C)

13-Única especie cultivada que sintetiza ácido tartárico.

14-Especie de vital importancia económica en muchas zonas mundiales.
Con esta pequeña introducción solamente he querido marcar la importancia que tiene, o debe tener, la viticultura. Hablaremos de modelos vitícolas, técnicas vitícolas, material vegetal,…un gran número de temas que poco a poco iremos desgranando. Intercalaremos enología, catas, jornadas gastronómicas, etc…con el único ánimo de hacer un blog completo, atractivo y que sirva de lectura a aquellos que sienten la misma pasión y curiosidad que nosotros: el mundo del vino.
Un saludo
The Show Must Go On

55 comentarios:

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Excelente comienzo e interesante. Sólo una cosa, ¿no te resulta más cómodo leer negro sobre blanco que blanco sobre negro?. Tal vez es que voy mayor. ;-))
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Bueno, la verdad es que tienes razón. A ver si así se aprecia mejor.

Es que quería cansar ya demasiado pronto a los lectores y agotarles lo antes posible :-)))

Gabriel Haro dijo...

¡Macho pues no lo vas a conseguir!, el arranque es bueno espero leer las siguientes entregas, me parece muy interesante. ¡Tantas preguntas me acometen!, ¿Que es el vino si no hay emocion ni placer?
Un fuerte abrazo

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Gracias Iñaki se ve muuuucho mejor, dónde va a parar. Te ha quedado mono si señor ;-)).

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Iñaki, seguro que tienes fuerzas para mantener este ritmo ??? jeje
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Bienvenido Guarda, aquí tienes tu "casa". Aunque no conocieras este blog, siento no decir lo mismo del tuyo...del que soy asiduo lector (llegué a él a través de leerte alguna vez en el blog de mi buen amigo Manuel Camblor).
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Hola queridos Españoles, hermanos de la patria, les escribo de Mendoza Argentina. La verdad que me tome el tiempo para escribirte, porque realmente casi se me cae una lagrima al leer tu introducción. Es verdaderamente un sentimiento la vid, y una pasión su elaboración. Te felicito por esta página, realmente me ha gustado mucho, y ojalá encontrara mas páginas como esta, donde se combinan tantas pasiones :=) UN ABRAZO GRANDE A TODOS

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